2016年10月31日星期一

12V metal Dual usb splitter outlet for motorcycle & car

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The Ultimate 3 in 1 power station for your motorcycle/ATV/Snowmobile
We spent the better half of the past year to design and developed this awesome power station. with no doubt, the best power station in the world today!
we've managed to combine all features available into one unit:
dual-usb-splitter-outlet
now you can charge up to three devices at once using the splitter USB cable and the cigarette socket.

you can safely use the cigarette lighter

With the voltage screen, you can monitor your motorcycle battery power at any given moment.

with our exclusive feature, your UPC04 will indicate you when the battery power is too low and even shut OFF the USB port to prevent your battery from getting drained.

And off course design. this unit has a beautiful design, the perfect size and high quality mounting gear to compliment any motorcycle.
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Specification:
* Total Power Cable Length: 69" (175cm)
* Voltage Input: DC 9~24V
* Power Socket Output: 10A 120W
* USB Rated Output Voltage: DC 5V 2A
* Dimension: 3.15" W x 1.65" H x 2.5" D or 7.87cm W x 4.19cm H x 8cm D
View more info:
http://www.lexinonline.com/accessories-c-70/12v-metal-dual-usb-splitter-outlet-for-motorcycle-car-p-343.html

2016年10月28日星期五

LEXIN 4x Waterproof Motorcycle Bluetooth Intercom System Review

It just makes riding 10x cooler, safer, and fun. Great intercom to start with.
1
 Article By Our customer Rollingdice

I ordered this product because it had a few key features that I could not do without. I will list the features that were most important to me and review how well the claims were to all four of our experiences with the product.

Waterproof: 5/5
The waterproof design was an absolute must for me and I must say it doesn't seem to be affected when using it in the rain or riding through sprinklers that people have overlapping from their lawn onto the road.

Wind Resistant: 3/5
In the city these are very clear and little to no wind noise or distortion can be heard. Around 40 mph to 60 mph a medium but bearable wind noise can be heard. Anything past 60 mph and its pretty difficult to make out what anyone is saying or hear your music. It looks like i can swap out the headphones (which are connected to the microphone) with a better brand and continue to use the unit as the intercom is great.
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Group Conversation:2.5/5
I had read over the statements of the group conversation for the motorcycle intercom very clearly and was disappointed to find out that the statements are a bit misleading. It indicates that you can talk with up to 6 riders but doesn't clearly indicate that this is only a one on one conversation. I was under the impression that only two people could talk in the group at the same time - which i would of been fine with - but this is not the case! You have to go through a bit of a tedious process with the pairing. Essentially there are 6 letters and you assign 1 person to the same letter on everyone's intercom. If i want to talk to Person A i push the A button and we get connected. No one else can connect to us and we cannot talk to anyone else until we disconnect. There is a nice busy signal that will inform you there is a conversation going on but I was really hoping for a full group conversation; however, the switching between people works nicely. There is about a 5 second delay to get connected but it seems to work the first try which is nice because I do not want to sit there and mess around with buttons on my helmet while i'm riding.
3-1
Distance: 4/5
Within the first hour of having these bad boys I already had my friends over installing them in our helmets. One of them wanted to pick up smokes at the gas station 2 blocks down the road and that was our first distance test. When I was inside my house it was a bit dissatisfying that the signal was broken the moment he left the driveway. However, when i stepped outside I was able to get a better connection but not the best. But when using them on the road and riding, man do these babies perform!! It must be more of a direct signal as I was able to get better reception when nothing was in the line of sight between me and the other rider.
4
*** Other comments
The Bluetooth seems to work pretty well. There is a nice priority system. If i remember correctly it was your music is lowest, then calling, then intercom. So if someone calls you while you're listening to a song it will answer the call and temporarily pause your music. Then when the call is done the music resumes. The installation was very simple - I actually found the pairing process to be more difficult than installation but neither were THAT bad. It was VERY VERY nicely packaged and every single last part was included which shouldn't be impressive to me but it was. They even include an aux cable for you.
Overall I liked this product as the price was absolutely exceptional and most of the claims were well supported. It does appear a good amount of time was put into the design of the product and doesn't feel, look, or act cheap. I wish it could handle the higher winds better and that it was a full group conversation but everything else was spot on.

UPDATE** One of our riders mounting clips broke off (and trust me these things are pretty sturdy I have no idea how he managed to do this) the company didn't even ask or provide any hassle on how it happened - they sent me TWO replacements which only costed me shipping... which was practically nothing. Now that's outstanding customer service!
More buletooth intercom infomation please click: http://www.lexinonline.com/wireless-bluetooth-interphone-c-66/

2016年10月25日星期二

How to choose motorcycle intercom

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Motorcycle riders love the independence of getting on a motorcycle and riding into the sunset. In some cases, though, the rider may have a passenger, and it is also quite common for motorcycle riders to ride in pairs or as a group. In these cases, it is often necessary for the rider to communicate with the passenger, or with another rider. Screaming over the sound of the motors and the wind is not very feasible, nor is sign language, so to help motorcycle riders communicate, there are motorcycle inter-communicators, or intercoms.

These come in three major categories:

    basic acoustic communicators
    wired communicators
    wireless systems.

The acoustic intercoms are just ear plugs and a mouth piece which let a speaker say something which will travel through a hollow tube to the listener. This method has no amplification and it is, therefore, of limited use at high speeds. Obviously it only works between a rider and a passenger.

The second intercom type is a wired intercom which uses the motorcycle to connect the rider with the passenger. Each one is plugged into a jack in the motorcycle, and the communication between them can then be quite fluid. Again, this only works when the two people communicating are on the same motorcycle. Keep in mind that all of this takes place inside of the respective helmets.

For communication between motorcycles, wireless intercoms work very well.

There are four different technological solutions for wireless intercoms:

    FM
    FRS
    GMRS
    Bluetooth.

FM uses a limited, narrow frequency of the modulated frequency used in FM radios, and it works best when there are no hills or buildings. For a 2 mile radius, the Family Radio Service, or FRS, option works fine, but for longer distances, the General Mobile Radio Service is preferred, akin to the walkie-talkies.

Be aware that FRS and GMRS frequencies are public, so someone else on the same frequency can hear your conversation.

The most advance motorcycle intercom method is the use of helmets with wireless Bluetooth technology, just like the hands-free technology of many cell phones. Although Bluetooth intercoms work over only hundreds of feet, this is a private and much clearer facilitator of conversation between two riders, be they on the same motorcycle, or riding near each other. Once the two helmets are coordinated using Bluetooth, nobody else can intercept the communication between them.

Think carefully before deciding which motorcycle intercom system you will install in your helmets. Your options include one or two earpieces, a waterproof system for rainy riding, voice activation, noise reduction, music, and many other available features.

Article Write By Kym Lawn

2016年10月21日星期五

3 color Bluetooth Motorcycle Speakers Handlebar Clamp for Harley

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2016 Newest version 3 color luxury quality Motorcycle Bluetooth Speaker Stereo Mid-range Motorcycle Speakers Handlebar Clamp for Harley
Note:Now Has the Gold and Sliver color in stock..please leave a message to tell us the color you want when you plcce the order
Function:
* IP4 Waterproof
* Support TF/USB/AUX-IN playback
* Support MP3/WMA format
* Support Bluetooth connect
* FM radio,radio is clear
* High fidelity, stereo circuit design
* Digital circuit design, efficient section low standby power consumption
* Output power:2x7W
Click below link to know more info http://www.lexinonline.com/motorcycle-audio-system-c-65/3-color-bluetooth-motorcycle-speakers-handlebar-clamp-for-harley-p-327.html

2016年10月19日星期三

2 pcs Motorcycle BT Helmet Headset for 4 riders with Remote unit

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2 pcs R4 Motorcycle Helmet Intercom Headset for 6 Riders Interphone support Remote Control
Remote control on handgrip
Communication in 4 Riders
1200m maximum intercom range
Hi-Fi sound quality (one of the best Hi-Fi sound quality similar with Sony so you can always enjoy mumic with our Hi-Fi speakers)
Up to 120km/h speed
Up to 8hours talking time
Auto-receiving mobile call
Mobile/mp3/stereo music
Audio navigation from GPS
Line in 2.5 mm audio jack, can connect with any audio source
Wind noise DSP cancellation
Full weather protected
Friendly for gloves
Easily mounts to all full face and open face helmets.






Specifications:
Maximun communication range: 1200m
Input: AC 100-220V
Output: DC 5V
Battery: 500mAh Li Polymer
Charging time: about 3 hours
Standby time: up to 120 hours
Package size: 23 * 16 * 6cm (9.0 * 6.2 * 2.3in)
Package weight: 800g / 25.7oz

Package including:
2 * Main Units
2* Remote control handle
2 Sets of Clips for Mounting the Main Units
2 *Hi-Fi Speakers & Mocrophone & Audio Plugs
2 * USB Cables
2 * Chargers
2 *Pairs of Screws
1* simple installation tool
1 * User Manual
Click to buy at once http://www.lexinonline.com/wireless-bluetooth-interphone-c-66/2-pcs-motorcycle-bt-helmet-headset-for-4-riders-with-remote-unit-p-289.html

2016年10月13日星期四

MOTORCYCLE SCOOTER HANDLEBAR THROTTLE GRIP SECURITY LOCK





Function:
* 100% brand new and high quality
* Simple to use, highly visible, easy to use
* Designed as strong enough and light in weight
* Built-in stainless steel wire, difficult to cut with a saw
* Widely used for all scooters, motorcycles and ATVs
* Stops embarrassing falls - Unlike disc locks, you can't forget it's in place, no bending, no disc dirt or street grime.
* Key not required to lock.
* Twist grip sizes from 27-38mm
* Used on the front brake lever will keep the bike from being pushed off the centre or side stand
* Used on the rear brake lever will hold the back tyre from spinning allowing for the loosening or re-torquing of the clutch nut when doing belt, clutch and variator maintenance
Specification:
* Color: Yellow/Red/Orange/Green/Black
* Material: Micro Fiber and built-in stainless steel wire
* Pushing Part Size: 3mm*1pc/5mm*2pcs/7mm*1pc
* Main Unit Size: 160 x 50 x 45mm
* Net Weight: 313g
Package Includes:
* 1 x Handlebar Grip Lock
* 2 x Key
* 4 x Pushing Part
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Description:
This Caps Lock has been designed as an easy to use, highly visible, theft deterrent for all scooters, motorcycles and ATVs. Caps Lock works by locking the front brake lever to the handlebar, preventing the vehicle from being pushed away.
Fitting Your Caps Lock:
* Remove Caps-Lock from packaging, ensure the keys are seperated and the spare key is kept in a safe place.
* Open Caps-Lock and install appropriate sized pushing part to snuggly grip the throttle. Once you have chosen the correct pushing part you may choose to glue them in place
* Click the lever retainer forwards or backwards by pushing at the base of it to adjust the lever setting. Caps-Lock can be installed with no pressure on the brake arm, this still immobilises the twist grip. If chosen to engage the front brake you only need light pressre for this to be effective.
* Place the Caps-Lock over your throttle grip and front brake lever, push the locking button and relax
* Unlock your Caps-Lock by inserting key and turning button releases. Remove from brake lever and bike grip
Click below link to know more http://www.lexinonline.com/accessories-c-70/motorcycle-scooter-handlebar-throttle-grip-security-lock-p-307.html

2016年10月7日星期五

How To Install Led Lights On A Motorcycle Wheels

Installing LED lights is an easy and fun way to make a unique statement with your motorcycle, and the finished product will look awesome. After you buy an motorcycle LED lighting kit you like or buy LED strips to design your own, you can easily install them at home.
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Preparing for the Project

1.Gather everything you’ll need. In addition to the LED light kit, you’ll need additional electrical wire, preferably in two different colors to help you differentiate the positive and negative battery connections. The job will also require velcro strips (or a permanent adhesive if you prefer), additional 18- or 20-gauge electrical wire, sandpaper, pliers, screwdrivers, soldering equipment (or soldering gel), wire terminal connectors, electrical tape, and an in-line fuse.

2.Test your LED strips. Test the strip by attaching the positive lead wire to the positive terminal on a battery and connecting the negative lead wire to the negative side of the battery terminal. Make sure that each individual strip fully lights.

    Your LED kit may come with a battery you can use to test the LED strips. If not, you can use your motorcycle’s battery to test them. Just make sure you disconnect it from the motorcycle first. You can even use a spare nine-volt battery you have around to test the strips.
    As you’re testing the strips, separate all of the same-size strips into different piles. This will make it easier to use them later.
    It’s a good idea to disconnect the motorcycle’s battery now even if you don’t need to use it to test the LED strips. In most models of motorcycle, you will find the battery located beneath the seat. By disconnecting the battery, you can test your LED light strips without worry of harming the other motorcycle components that it powers.

 3.Test locations for your motorcycle LED lights. Your specific LED kit may come with instructions for where to mount your lights, but if not, use painter’s tape to temporarily attach them to the motorcycle. Try a couple of designs and make sure that you have enough strips to complete the design you want.

    Make sure you’re using masking tape since it won’t hurt the paint on your motorcycle at all when you peel it back off.

4.Pick a placement for your switch. Your LED kit will come with a switch, which should have three leads on the back—positive, negative, and ground. Pick a comfortable location where you will later mount the switch.

light

Attaching the LED Strips to Your Motorcycle

1
Attach velcro to your LED strips. Once you know exactly where all of your strips need to go, you can go about attaching them to the motorcycle. Many motorcycle LED kits will come with tape strips already attached, but after sticking them, you’re pretty much stuck with the design. Using thin velcro strips instead can give you plenty of adhesion while also giving you the option to move them at will.[4]

    If you’re certain you won’t ever want to move the strips, you can naturally use the tape strips that come with them or pick up some strong double-sided tape to use to adhere the strips.

2
Attach the strips to your motorcycle. With your positioning picked out and your velcro applied, you can now adhere the strips to your motorcycle. For some spots, such as placing a strip on the underside of a fairing, you might have to remove pieces. These aerodynamic pieces are simply held in place with mounting screws, so you can remove them with a screwdriver and/or socket wrench.[5]

    When positioning your strip, make sure that you velcro it with the wiring pointing toward the battery. You’ll need to feed all of the wires in this general direction.


3
Fish the unconnected wiring toward the battery. Some wiring, such as that behind a fairing, might need to be fished out for you to take care of the electrical portion of the project. You can use rigid line like that from a weed eater or even fishing line. Tie the wiring to the line, then once the fairing is back in place, you can fish it out with the fishing line.


Connecting the Electrical Components

1.Connect the switch to the positive terminal on the battery. Using some additional red (since it’s the positive terminal) electrical wiring, you will need to attach your switch to the positive battery terminal. Solder a ring terminal to one end of the wire. This end will fit over the positive terminal on the battery before you tighten it down. Solder another terminal to the opposite end after you’ve run enough wire to reach the switch.

    You should additionally splice your in-line fuse into this portion of the wiring. LEDs draw very little power, but connecting a fuse is always the safe thing to do. The in-line fuse will have a wire coming out of each side. Cut a gap in your wire in a spot where the fuse can fir easily near the battery under your seat. Use your wire strippers to remove maybe 1/2” of the wire sheath and twist together your wire and those from one end of the fuse, then use electrical tape to secure the connection. Do this on both sides, so the fuse runs seamlessly. You will only need a 5-10 amp fuse since the lights draw so little power.
    If you’re unsure how, you can look up how to Solder, or you can purchase a soldering gel, which allows you to place the wire into the terminal along with the gel, then simply add heat.
    Your switch will most likely have male terminal connections, so you’ll need a female terminal connections to solder to the wire.
    For any wire splices that you make sure the project, you can additionally buy heat-shrinking wire wrap to further secure the spliced connection. The wrap slides over the wire on top of the electrical tape (make sure you buy the appropriate size for the wire you’re using), and then you can apply a bit of heat with a lighter (don’t burn the wire to either side of the wrap), which will cause it to shrink down and reinforce the splice.

2.Connect your ground wire. This connection also requires an additional piece of wire with a connection to the switch soldered at one end and a ring terminal soldered at the other. You will connect one end to the ground terminal of your switch, and you will connect the other end to the metal frame of your motorcycle. The ground wire needs to have a metal-on-metal connection, so it’s easiest simply to find a metal portion of the frame with a bolt near the switch location and to put the ring terminal over the bolt and tighten it back down.

    In order to ensure that it’s a metal-on-metal connection, use a piece of sandpaper to remove any paint that might be on the frame directly where the bolt tightens down to the frame.

3.Connect the positive LED strip wires to the switch. Run the positive wire from each of your motorcycle LED lights toward where you have placed your switch. Run the wires tight to the frame, securing them if you need to. Once all of the wires have enough length to reach your switch, use your wire strippers to remove a bit of the wire sheath, twist them all together, and solder them to the terminal you need to connect them to the positive terminal on the switch.

    If the positive and negative wire sheaths on your LED strips are connected, you can use an X-Acto knife or box cutter in the divot that runs parallel to the two wires to separate them since you will need to run them in opposite directions.
    If any of the wires end up being too short, you can use some of the additional wiring you have to make it longer. Just use the wire strippers to remove a bit of the end sheaths, twist each bunch together, and secure it well with electrical tape.


4.Connect the negative LED strip wires to the negative battery terminal. Now run all of the negative wiring from your motorcycle LED lights to the battery. Like you did with the line from the battery to the switch, you’re going to connect them to the battery with a ring terminal. Once you’ve run all of the negative wires from each LED strip to the battery, solder them into the ring terminal that you will attach over the negative terminal of the battery before tightening it down.
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Tips

    If you have multiple strips in a similar location on the bike, you can always splice the positive wires together and the negative wires together in that location. This will allow you to run one wire toward the switch or battery instead of several.
    It may help to remove some of the fairings on your motorcycle while you work, so you can more easily secure the wiring to the frame in a way where it won’t be visible when you’re done.
    Use your nine-volt or test battery to test your LED strips after each splice. It’s much easier to fix a splicing connection before you have moved on than to try to retrace the steps of a particular wire later on.
    Remember that some states have laws that may prohibit these types of lights while you are driving on the road or highway. In other words, check the laws in your state prior to riding on the road with your lights illuminated. They are only allowed for "Display Only Purposes" in some states. Check the laws before you ride, and stay safe out there.
    Some kits may also have a key fob remote control for the lights, in which case you will also need to run the antenna wire down the frame of the motorcycle to improve reception.


Warnings

    If your specific motorcycle LED kit doesn’t come with a fuse in the wiring, then you should splice one in. It’s always safer to have a fuse even for low-draw LEDs.
    Ensure that you disconnect the motorcycle battery before you get started.


Things You’ll Need

    Weather-resistant LED light strips
    An in-line fuse
    Electrical tape
    Soldering gel or a soldering iron and solder.
    Lighter
    18 or 20 gauge electrical wire (preferably in black and red to help you differentiate the positive and negative connections)
    A pair of wire strippers
    Velcro or a more permanent adhesive if that’s your preference
    A stiff wire to help fish the electrical line through the tighter spaces of the motorcycle
    Switch and ring terminals
    Pliers or wire crimpers
    Sandpaper
    Screwdriver
    A battery to test the LED strips




SOURCE From http://www.wikihow.com/Install-LED-Lights-on-a-Motorcycle